My First Pilgrimage: the North East Section of the Camino de Santiago

The north east leg of the Camino de Santiago starts at Finchale Priory just north of Durham and finishes at the ancient Anglo-Saxon church - one of the oldest in the Britain - in the village of Escomb. The route is roughly 22 miles long and takes in several pilgrim places, such as the church and priory mentioned above and the highlight: the Majestic Durham Cathedral (a UNESCO world heritage site). The terrain meanders through woodland, riverside, meadows and occasionally, housing estates. I am not going to provide a detailed route here. Instead I will provide a general outline along with some information on some of the key spots along the way. I walked the Camino with my friend Alex during the summer, when the lockdown restrictions had eased. It was my first one-day "long distance" walk and my first Pilgrimage Trail (it gets a brief mention in The Pilgrimage Trust's 2020 Britain's Pilgrimage Places). It was a great experience. Never before have I walked such a distance and seeing the landscape change throughout, intermingled with the various historical and cultural points of interest, made it an experience to remember. I cannot overstate the cultural caliber of this walk. The Pilgrimage Trust suggest that Durham Cathedral has a claim to be Britain's holiest place. It certainly hosts the remains of some of the most notable figures in the history of Christianity in Britain, most notably St Cuthbert, the Venerable Bede and St Oswald. 

For those interested in walking the north east Camino, here is the waymarker to look out for:

Stage 1: Finchale Priory to Durham Cathedral

Finchale Priory

The priory at Finchale was established in 1196 in remembrance of St Godric, the Austere Monk who allegedly lived to the ripe old age of 105. In contrast to his later Saintliness, Godric spent twenty years of his life as a pirate, making a living from trade and bucanneering. His seafaring ways ended following a trip to Inner Farne Island, once the home of the ascetic St Cuthbert, who led the famous monastery on Lindesfarne (see the section on Durham Cathedral). Godric had a vision of St Cuthbert, who persuaded him to abandon his life on the sea and to make amends for his youthful wrongdoings. Godric came to reside at the riverbank of the Wear, near to where the Priory is now. He lived there for sixty years. Like Cuthbert, he was known for leading an ascetic life of self-denial, and for developing a remarkable connection to wildlife. He also holds the distinction of being the earliest hymn writer whose verses and music survive. His grave can still be found near the river bank, marked by a cross. 

Alex and I met at the ruins of Finchale Priory, which is situated next to the river Wear. Alex was dropped off by his Dad, and me by my Mam. It was an early start. Some time around 7:30am. This meant that it was nice and quiet. The beautiful scene at the priory is a great place to start a pilgrimage. Though it is followed by something of an anti-climax as you pass alongside Durham HMP. After passing Crook Hall you rejoin the river. By this point, most people were starting their working day, an interesting point to contemplate as we progressed on the early stages of our pilgrimage. Durham is a beautiful city. And although there is something special about seeing it at its most bustling, a sight familiar to those who have attended the Miners' Gala, it was nice to have the city to ourselves - or at least that's the way it felt at the time. We crossed over the river into the city and made our way to the Cathedral. 

Durham Cathedral

The Pilgrimage Trust's Britain's Pilgrim Places asserts that Durham Cathedral has a claim to be the most holy place in Britain. The story of the Cathedral is bound up with that of Cuthbert. Cuthbert led his Monastery on the holy island of Lindesfarne, just off the Northumbrian coast. Cuthbert lived a life of asceticism, choosing eventually to leave Lindersfarne for the remoter and harsher conditions of Inner Farne Island, where he died in 687 AD. Lindersfarne was not only a beacon of early Christianity, but a place where learning and literature flourished, culminating in the publication of the Lindersfarne Gospels, one of the most significant documents originating in Northumberland but now, predictably, kept in the British Museum in London. Disaster struck the Island in 793 AD, when it was invaded by the Vikings. The monks had no choice but flee, taking the body of Cuthbert with them. The monks wandered for many years with no fixed abode. They settled in the old Roman town of Chester-le-Street for 100 years. But fear of their old Scandinavian foe sent them on their travels again. According to some accounts, they made it as far south as Ripon. They eventually returned north, coming to a halt at Warden Law near Hetton. One of the monks had a vision of Cuthbert, in which the Saint requested that he be rested at Dun Holm. The word "Dun" is Anglo Saxon for hill and "Holm" a Scandinavian word denoting an island. This "Dun Holm" or "hill island" turned out to be what we know today as Durham. The monks built a church and buried Cuthbert on top of the peninsula where the Cathedral now stands. Its lofty height offered a vantage point to survey potential threats. The Cathedral was built some years later and this remains Cuthbert's final resting place. His remains lay, along with St Oswald's head, under a stone slab in the east end of the building. 

The Venerable Bede's grave is in the Galilee Chapel. Bede's notability is only partly due to his status as a Saint. He also has the recognition of being the first British Historian. His pioneering work The Ecclesiastical History of the English People provides an account of the spread of Christianity throughout Anglo Saxon Britain and offers a glimpse into that notoriously obscure period of our history: The Dark Ages. Perhaps, as some scholars have argued, this is something of a misnomer. Though the word "dark" is apt if we are referring to "being in the dark" about this period, the implication that it is a period of backwardness and ignorance is not warranted. Bede, who was educated at the celebrated Jarrow Monastery, is testament to the flourishing in education and culture which took place during this formative period in our history. 

Stage 2 Durham Cathedral to Sunderland Bridge

Unfortunately Alex and I were unable to enter the Cathedral. It was still closed at this point due to the ongoing pandemic. We dropped back down onto the Wear. The guide we were using made mention of St Cuthbert's well. We managed to locate it up the bank above the riverside path:

We departed from the river at St Oswald's Church. From there we made our way to Mount Joy, from which we descended into the woods near Houghall. Shortly afterwards we passed into open access land which surrounds Low Burnhall farm and runs alongside the Wear. By this point the both of us were peckish, so we searched the riverside for an appropriate picnic spot. We perched on the pebble strewn bay and lit our jet boils. Both of us had a Wayfarers meal that just needed poaching for a few minutes. Then we put on the coffees and had a pleasant twenty minutes or so gazing out along the Wear. Much of the enjoyment of walking lies in resting and taking in the scenery. Revitalised, we left the open access area where it meets the busy A177, not far from the Honest Lawyer hotel. We followed the road over the river, before turning right into Sunderland Bridge village, passing St Bartholomew Church on the left. As you pass through this beautiful quaint village keep an eye out for a waymarker on the left, bearing the Camino logo. This leads into Croxdale Hall Estate. Unfortunately this walk does not take in Croxdale Hall, nor the ancient chapel nearby. But I would highly recommend seeking it out. It has long been owned by the Salvin family and is one of the oldest buildings in the area. Instead, we turned left along the track toward the ancient Sunderland Bridge (the actual bridge, not the village). This bridge dates back to the 14th century. An area of the nearby woodland was the site of a battle in 1346 between the forces of King David II of Scotland and the English forces of the Archbishop of York and the Bishops of Durham. There is a story that during the battle, the monks of Durham said their prayers nearby holding a banner depicting Cuthbert impaled on a spear. The view out to the river from Sunderland bridge is superb, making this an ideal place for a rest. Also keep an eye out for the solitary Moscovy duck known to frequent these parts. 

Stage 3: Sunderland Bridge to Auckland Castle

From Sunderland Bridge we headed through Croxdale Woods with the river on our right. By this point tiredness was slowly starting to kick in. We turned left to follow Nicky Nack beck to Croxdale village. Behind the Daleside Arms there is a stile leading into a meadow. From here we crossed a number of fields leading into Tudhoe Village. Tudhoe's medieval origins are apparent in its layout. Like nearby Hett, the houses are build up around a large village green. Tudhoe also has the oldest inn in this part of County Durham, The Green Tree, which dates back to 1727. Things can get a little tricky here. There is a narrow passageway between houses that leads into a horse's meadow. The way is marked by the Camino Waymarker. The natural tendency will be to press on straight ahead. Instead you need to veer off diagonally to the right, where you will find an entrance to Tudhoe Mill Woods. This is now a Nature reserve, but was formerly a drift mine and for a time the workplace of Spennymoor born painter Norman Cornish.  

The route then takes you over a slab of a bridge crossing a beck, which leads behind a housing estate and onto a farmer's track. At the end of the track there is a right turn leading to an information board describing some of the wildlife to be found nearby. There is a gate which takes you across a couple of acres of farmland eventually running alongside the perimeter wall of the Victorian Walled Garden of the Whitworth Estate. Whitworth Estate is ancient, though the hall that occupies it is mostly Victorian, the original having been destroyed by a fire. Near the hall there is a deer park. And in the centre of the estate is a large pond. Whitworth was the home of the MP Bobby Shafto, who is buried in the nearby church. Today, Shafto is perhaps best known as the subject of the popular nursery rhyme "Bobby Shafto's Gone to Sea":

Bobby Shafto's gone to sea,

Silver buckles at his knee;

He'll come back and marry me,

Bonny Bobby Shafto!

Bobby Shafto's bright and fair,

Combing down his yellow hair;

He's my love for evermore,

Bonny Bobby Shafto!

From Whitworth Hall you need to turn right briefly before taking a right of way on the other side of the road. You are aiming for the second of two rights of way (when I was last here it bore the Camino waymarker) which passes over the edge of farmland. You briefly enter woodland where you cross a small footbridge over a beck, eventually leading into Byers Green. Thomas Wright (1711-1786), a famous Astronomer whose work influenced the philosopher Immanuel Kant, came from this village. Wright's "Folly", an observatory he had built in the nearby small hilltop village of Westerton still stands to this day. Wright is also the namesake of one of the restaurants in the village called "Thomas Wright House". Having walked through the village, we turned left just before the church onto Hagg Lane. Shortly after we left the lane for a stile on the right and followed Hagg beck before emerging at a horse's meadow. We crossed the meadow and emerged onto the Auckland Way, a former railway line now cycling/walking path stretching from Spennymoor to Bishop Auckland (see a previous post). The Camino follows this path to Binchester. After the Auckland Way sign for Binchester, you cross a bridge, at the end of which there is a Camino waymarker on the right directing you to the woodland below. 

The walk through "Binnie Woods" (Bellburn Wood on the OS map) is pleasant and on a hot day offers welcome shelter. As the name suggests, Binchester is of Roman origin. There is a Roman Fort, Vinovia, which is open to the public. However, the fort is actually closer to Bishop Auckland just off the narrow road that runs along the Wear. The village of Binchester that we passed on the Auckland Way is a much more recent settlement which built up around the mining industry. After leaving the woods, there follows some tricky navigation over farmers' fields. The best advice is just to try and follow the direction of the Camino waymarkers. It is actually on this stretch that you come within closest proximity to the Roman Fort. And you eventually emerge at the road I mentioned, rejoining the river Wear. On the opposite side of the river are the grounds of Kynren, a live outdoor performance reenacting events from British history. We then departed the road for a path on the left which leads to the grounds of Auckland Castle. We had to brave it past a strangely situated Highland Bull in the process, whose lethal horns and menacing demeanor did not bode well for our weary legs. We managed to pass him with little trouble. Fortunately so, for by now both of us were flagging. So we decided it was time to take another break. 

Auckland Castle

Auckland Castle was for many years home to the Prince Bishop of Durham. The title of Prince Bishop came with remarkable powers and privileges, notably to collect taxes, raise an army and mint their own coins. The power of the Prince Bishop diminished over the years and the position was abolished after the tenure of William Van Mildert (1765-1836). Mildert died at Auckland Castle, which a few years previously in 1832 replaced Durham Cathedral as the primary residence of the Bishop of Durham. The title of "Bishop of Durham" replaced that of "Prince Bishop" and its holder takes a seat in the House of Lords. The castle received major restoration a couple of years ago and was recently opened to the public. Inside there is St Peter's Chapel, one of the largest private chapels in Europe and an art gallery. Also of notability is the "Bishop's Study," which contains many of the private writings and correspondence of Bishop Hensley Henson (1863-1947), a passionate opponent of the Chamberlain government's policy of appeasement toward Nazi Germany. At the time of writing, the castle is closed to the public due to covid 19. But when I was last there I bought a ticket granting me entry to the castle, the hideous fork shaped Auckland tower, whose pleasant vantage point for surveying the town unfortunately falls short of making up for its appearance, and the Mining Art Gallery, which at the time was exhibiting Norman Cornish paintings. 

Stage 4 - Auckland Castle to Escomb Church

Leaving the castle grounds we continued along the road, past the Wetherspoons on the left. The Weatherspoons is called The Stanley Jefferson though most will be more familiar with its namesake's stage name Stan Laurel, one half of the comedy duo Laurel and Hardy. Despite what some locals say, Laurel was not actually born in Bishop. In fact, he was born in the Lakeland town of Ulverston near the Morecambe bay coastline. I know this to be a fact because I visited the house in which he was born in a recent trip to Ulverston. That's not to say Bishop has no claim to this national treasure. He spent part of his childhood here and his father, Arthur, ran the town's Eden Theater. As well as the Weatherspoons, there is also a statue in the town commemorating Laurel. 

We avoided the large Newton Cap viaduct, which crosses the Wear, instead making our way down to the riverbank near the ancient Newton Cap Bridge. From here we followed the meandering Wear. This was a particularly pleasant section of the walk. The river on this section is of a dark, copper colour:

My legs were really starting to tire by this point, so you can imagine my relief as Escomb came within our sights. We had made it. Our pilgrimage had taken us from Finchale Priory on the Wear to what is one of the most ancient churches in Britain: Escomb Church. This church was built in the 7th century during the Anglo-Saxon era but it is still standing strong and remains a place of worship. I had been here once before and, on that occasion, was able to borrow a key to the church from a local resident. Despite its age, the church remains robust and is probably the best preserved from that era. Moreover, its remarkable history stretches beyond its construction in the Anglo-Saxon period. It was built using materials extracted from Binchester Roman Wall following Roman withdrawal from Britain. The surrounding churchyard is circular, which is perhaps an indication of Celtic origins. 

So this was my first "Long Distance" walk and my first pilgrimage. Though I have been on some long walks since then, I have not done anything resembling a pilgrimage. This will hopefully change soon enough. Recounting this walk in this blog and looking over the photographs from the day have perked me up for the next challenge. I have Britain's Pilgrim Places in front of me and plans are about to be made...