Camping: Kentmere Horseshoe, Yorkshire Three Peaks and D of E (Part 1)

 It was supposed to be the big cycling expedition. But alas, my schedule didn't allow me to get the proper training in beforehand. A few days before the trip was set to happen, I needed to face the hard fact that I just wasn't ready. Not only that, but in the two evenings prior to the trip, my schedule was packed. The cycling trip was meant to be on the friday. I was at work both wednesday and thursday, and my evenings were took up with a gym instructor course on the wednesday and donating platelets on thursday. I just wasn't going to get the chance to do the last minute work on my bike before going out. 

The campsites had already been booked though, so rather than scrap the whole thing, I decided to go ahead with camping, but I'd hike instead of bike. But this meant some last minute route planning. In the end, this came fairly easy. I had been wanting to walk the Kentmere horseshoe for some time. I had set off to do it last year but the road leading up to Kentmere village was closed and there was no other obvious way of getting there. On the friday, I was staying at Ings Kippers Campsite, not far from Kentmere, so I decided I would try again. For the Saturday I'd booked a site in the Yorkshire Dales village of Chapel-le-Dale. I don't know the Yorkshire Dales well at all. But one walk everyone knows is the Yorkshire Three Peaks. How viable was that from the camping site? I had a look at the map and lo and behold, the route literally runs through the campsite. That's day two sorted then. 

You might be wondering where the D of E (Duke of Edinburgh) comes into this. I never completed it as a youngster; I wasn't that interested in camping in those days. But in the week leading up to the trip, I was approached by someone at work who informed me that the college I work at was sending some students on the D of E training days for the gold award, but there were no staff from the college able to attend for safeguarding purposes. They knew I loved my camping and asked if I was interested. Of course I was, but the training days were to take place from bank holiday monday returning on the wednesday. This meant that I'd just have one day between trips. But of course I said yes, I'm not one to refuse a free camping holiday and in any case, at some point in the future I hope to switch careers to something related to outdoor education and this would provide me with some insight and hopefully, connections. 

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It's friday morning. I set off up the M6 toward Cumbria. I made my way to the small village of Ings, where I would be staying, before turning right into Staveley. There is a narrow road from Staveley that leads to the remote hamlet of Kentmere. I still had memories in my head of the last time I attempted this trip. The road into Kentmere was closed and if I were to have walked from Staveley, I would have added significant mileage onto the route. There is only one route into Kentmere as the road terminates and it is hemmed in on either side by fells. This time the road was open, but it is quite a difficult road. Not in the sense that it is overly windy or steep, but because it is very narrow, requiring due attention to passing places. 

I'd read online that parking in Kentmere is difficult and boy they weren't kidding. Just opposite the church there was space for about three cars with a phone box one side and the village hall on the other. I was in luck as only one space had been taken. But then again, the visibility was very poor and probably put some people off. Had it not been, I may have struggled getting parked. 

St Cuthbert's Church, Kentmere

The Kentmere Horseshoe may well be one of the most picturesque walks in the whole of Lakeland. But if it is, I wouldn't know anything about it, as the tops were covered in mist the whole time. And I mean covered. In terms of panoramic and birdseye views, I got nothing. But it was still a lovely walk anyway. Brilliant to be out in the fells and walking in difficult conditions comes with its own challenging satisfaction. 

Though I have read some conflicting information, as I understand it the Kentmere Horseshoe (or "Round"), includes eight Wainwrights: Yoke, Ill Bell, Frostwick, Thornthwaite Crag, Mardale Ill Bell, Harter Fell, Kentmere Pike and Shipman Knotts. The only one I'd previously summitted was Thornthwaite Crag. Back in 2019, I descended down from High Street summit to be struck by the enormous cairn on Thornthwaite. 

A misty perspective up to Thornthwaite Crag

The walk was fairly easy going. I'd read that it can get boggy. The boggiest part came on the second half of the horseshoe which required manoeuvring around peat. Navigating the second half was quite easy as it was fairly grassy and just required following the fence boundary. The first half was a little tougher and required navigating some craggy descents, which can be difficult in mist. I stopped for some lunch near Frostwick, then held off until after the half way point. By then, conditions were getting a little worse. The wind had picked picked up and it was feeling colder. After descending Mardale Ill Bell, I could see on the map that Nan Bield Pass, which is situated between Mardale and Harter, had a shelter. The quality of shelters varies so I didn't know what I should expect. But in the end, it was quite a solid structure with a proper seat which fortunately was on the opposite side to where the wind was hitting. Whilst sat there, I was passed by the first signs of life I'd seen since being on the tops. A European couple, seemingly a bit perplexed as to what I was doing and asked if I am okay. I replied that I was and asked them where they were headed, as they seemed equally perplexed by the guide book they were carrying. "Mardale car park" they said. I informed them to take the path that descends from Nan Bield's Pass down past a tarn then to the car park on Haweswater. 

After finishing the final half of the route, I was happy to get onto lower ground as I hadn't seen any scenery for hours. The walk was fairly moderate I would say. But I knew that the following day's excursions would be more challenging. The way out of Kentmere was more difficult than the way in. There were a couple of stalemates between me and the cars in front as we each waited for the other to reverse into a passing place. After emerging from the narrow road, I crossed the river Kent then made my way back into Staveley. I'd visited the village once before when I was first getting into fellwalking and walked some of the small hills that overlook the village. Hawekshead Brewery is located on a retail outlet. I decided to stop by for a pint. 

It was just a short drive from here to the campsite in Ings, which is on the main road into Windermere. Opposite the site there is a petrol station and a little further along the road behind it, there is the Watermill Inn pub, which is home to Windermere Brewing Company. After setting up camp I made my way over to the pub (you know the score by now). I passed the Pret beside the petrol station (why is there a Pret here by the way? Not that I'm complaining, I got a smashing sandwich the following day to take on the three peaks walk). I've been drinking their beer for years. I've only really seen it sold in the Lakes, unlike Hawkeshead beer, which gets all over. All the beers are dog themed. My favourite was always Dogth Vader. The labels haven't really changed since I started drinking them. I had a look at what they had on tap. Shitszu Faced. A very strong pint, designed to get you... Well, I think the name says it all. 

After a couple of pints I made my way back to my abode. Tonight's film: Mystic River, directed by Clint Eastwood and starring Sean Penn and Tim Robbins. A brilliant film, a murder mystery with a genuine unexpected twist.