Crook O'Lune

 

When it comes to Lancaster and its surrounding area, there is perhaps no better view than the Crook O’Lune. It has all you want from a walking destination; beauty, wildlife, literary and artistic associations and a rich history. It offers something for everyone. For the keen hiker, there is plenty of walking territory along the meandering Lune. Cyclists are keen visitors, since the spot is located alongside a stretch of the Lancashire cycle way. It is also an ideal location to sit and have a picnic whilst admiring one of the best views in the county. In this post, I will provide some background to this iconic location and describe some of the walks around it.

The Crook O’Lune is situated in between the villages of Caton and Halton. Entering via Caton, you will cross a fairly narrow bridge crossing the Lune, which runs adjacent to the cycle way, before shortly turning into the car park. The main part of the car park is often full, especially at the weekend, though there is an overflow at the back. The last time I was there the parking charge was £1.

When you emerge from the car, you will be greeted by the aromas of Woody’s café. There is a picnic area, with some benches, which arguably offers the most pleasant view of the Crook O’Lune; indeed, a case could be made that it is among the best views in Lancashire. The view goes out to the meandering Lune, which bends its way through the valley ahead. The domineering Ingleborough can be seen in the background on a clear day. To the left of the river, the wooded landscape rises steeply, in which there are several woods: Lawson Wood, Aughton Woods and Burton Wood, creating an asymmetry either side of the water which adds vastly to its beauty. The Romantic painter, J.M.W. Turner, painted this landscape in 1821.

Having admired this view, the natural inclination will be to walk along the river to the north. There is a nice easy circular available - around 3.5km in total - returning back on the other side of the river via the Thirlmere to Manchester waterworks bridge. The view from this section is stunning. Out to the right, you will see a former textile mill, Low Mill, now used as luxury accommodation. According to a Lancashire Life article, the recently deceased Bullseye host Jim Bowen was a former resident. As you continue on, you cross through a short section of woodland. Look out for the gaggle of geese that frequent the riverside, usually to be found with their bills buried in the muddy ground or exploring the surface of the water.

Although it is not completely obvious at first, there is a public footpath across the waterworks bridge; though it is narrow one, so in these socially distanced times it is worth seeing if anyone is approaching from the other end. This bridge was built in 1906. It is one of a number of aqueducts assisting the carriage of water from Lakeland to Manchester. There is another one nearby, Ottergear Bridge, not far from Quernmore, which is crossed on one of the popular routes up Clougha Pike in the Forest of Bowland (Crook O’Lune is technically in the Forest of Bowland too, but only just). Immediately after crossing to the other side, you will see several slabs which look like boundary stones. When I last took this route, I recall a trio of grebes scurrying around the river in a flurry. I also remember seeing the aforementioned gaggle ascending from the water to the riverbed in a highly regimented manner. Follow the river back in the direction from which you came, over a couple of stiles before dipping under the main bridge; from which you should be able to find your way back to the car park.

There are other walking options. You could continue further along the Lune. There is a nice section beyond the waterworks bridge as you approach Aughton. There is also a possible circular following the public footpath across Halton Park over the farmers’ fields respectively named Lower field, Middle Field and Far Highfield ending at Aughton, from which you can follow the river back.

Rather than going straight for the walk along the river, I’d recommend taking a detour to visit “Gray’s Seat”, named in honour of the poet Thomas Gray. Gray was a notoriously self-critical poet, which contributed to his diminished literary output. In a letter to a friend, Gray expressed his delight of the Crook O’Lune, writing:

'This scene opens just three miles from Lancaster, on what is called the Queen's Road ... Here Ingleborough behind a variety of lesser mountains, makes the background of the prospect; on each hand of the middle distance, rise two sloping hills; the left clothed with thick woods, the right with variegated rock and herbage: between them in the richest of vallies, the Lune serpentizes for many a mile, and comes forth ample and clear, through a well wooded and richly pastured foreground. Every feature which constitutes a perfect landscape of the extensive sort, is here not only boldly marked, but also in its best position.’

To visit Grey’s seat, leave the car park and turn right along the cycling path. After crossing the bridge over the Lune, immediately turn right, descending down to the river side, where you turn right again to walk underneath the bridge you have just crossed. Continue along the riverside path. When you arrive at a path ascending steeply right, follow it. This leads to the road, on the opposite side of which is the Scarthwaite Country House Hotel. This is quite a busy road and a bend to the right means additional care must be taken when crossing. After crossing the road, turn right and follow the bend. You will soon come to a gap in the wall on your left. Go through the gap, where you will find a board with information on Gray’s Seat. Continue ahead, rising up, steeply in places, through the fauna and beneath the trees, following the mossy stone wall on the right.

This is a pleasant part of the walk. It has an enchanted feel about it and for reasons I cannot quite put my finger on, seems slightly out of place compared with the rest of the area; as if one has entered a secret portal. I don’t use the word secret lightly; on the two occasions I walked to Gray’s seat, I did not pass another walker. You pass a small seat before arriving at the large one, which is Gray’s. Unfortunately, the view from here no longer holds the magic it must have had in Gray’s day. For one thing, much of it is obscured by the greenery immediately in front. For another, there is a caravan site situated below. I have nothing against caravans – I’ve stayed in plenty – but there is a time and a place. Still, even if the view does not quite live up to its reputation, the walk to reach it is pleasant in itself.

Having descended back down to the road, turn right and back around the bend. Cross the road again and leave the path where you originally entered it, but this time continue along the path to the right with the river on your left. This descends down to the river and marks the start of another picturesque section of the walk. Follow the river as it bends around back toward the bridge. On the right there is a memorial tree plantation, each tree honouring one departed: a fitting legacy for one who loves the outdoors. As the bend reaches the bridge, you will see to your left some fine sculptures of Otters and at the shore you are likely to be greeted by mallards. From here, make your way back to the car park above, via the cycle track.

As I mentioned, the Lancashire cycle way runs alongside the car park. The cycle track crosses the Lune in several places and provides charming views of the river below. To the east, there is a very short run to Caton Village. To the West, a couple of kilometres will take you to Lancaster – this section is a fine one indeed, with nice views opposite the Lune facing a smart row of houses in Halton village. Also on the track, you will see a white monument with “Witches 400” written on it, along with a poem written by Carol Anne Duffy. This marks a stage on the Lancashire Witches Walk, which was created to commemorate the 400^th anniversary of the Pendle Witches trials. The events surrounding these trials are a key part of the region’s history. The women accused of being witches were tried in nearby Lancaster Castle, where they were found guilty and subsequently hanged. This walking trail runs 51 miles from Barrowford to Lancaster Castle and according to the Long Distance Walkers association, is the route most likely taken by the Pendle women on their way to trial.

The Crook O'Lune, then, is well worth a visit, whether for a hike, a cycle, or just for a nice perch overlooking the river, taking in the landscape that has entranced the aesthetes of the past and hopefully those of the future.

Link to the Lancashire Life article on Low Mill: https://www.lancashirelife.co.uk/homes-gardens/property-market/why-the-residents-of-low-mill-in-caton-love-life-in-the-grade-ii-listed-building-1-5113005